Here is an interview with Tony and Maureen Papas, the producers of Trulli Ulivi. Their journey in the past couple of years has been fascinating - deep diving into an ancient agricultural region to understand the secrets and methods to producing such a beautiful Oil, but also bringing an 'outsider's' perspective to a region steeped in tradition.

 

How did you come to make olive oil in Puglia? 

From the moment we arrived in Puglia we knew that the place had everything we loved: good food, bold flavours, great weather and an opportunity to live close to the land. Surrounded by beautiful ancient olive groves and a deep cultural connection to extra virgin olive oil. Over time we have tapped into a community of local farmers and talented people. Since our first experience with harvest and production it was clear what we were going to do here. Make the best extra virgin olive oil we possibly could. Grow flavour from the ground up. 

 

 

What does Olive Oil production mean to the region of Puglia? 

Extra virgin olive oil is one of the pillars of Puglia’s agricultural economy, not just a commodity, it is a driver of employment, export, cultural tourism and rural sustainability. It’s more than just a beautiful, delicious product, it’s about landscape, community and resilience. Areas like ours in the commune of Ostuni celebrate the olive landscape with the millennial olive trees.

Historically and culturally olive cultivation dates to ancient times- Greeks, Romans and later Byzantines and Normans. Culturally olive oil is deeply tied to the region’s iden?ty. Used every day in cooking, religious rituals, the economy and landscape. 37% of Italian extra virgin olive oil (EVOO)is produced in this region, more than any other region in Italy. 

Puglia’s share of Italy’s olive oil production is around 45%. EVOO’s share of Puglia’s economic worth is in the range of 85- 90%, an annual value of €700 million to the region. Puglia’s contribution to Italy’s position as the world’s second largest exporter of olive oil after Spain, is very significant and meaningful.

This sector supports tens of thousands of jobs across Farming, Milling, Bo`ling and Packaging, Distribution and Export. Small family-run farms, like ours, and cooperatives are a major source of rural employment in Puglia.

 

 

What makes Puglia a good region for Olive Oil production? 

Puglia has the ideal environment for extra virgin olive oil production- hot, dry summers and mild winters favor olive growth. Extended sun exposure enhances the phenolic compounds, which improve flavour and shelf life and add a more pronounced spicy or bitter profile. Two other important factors are acidity, and cultivar or variety. The lower the acidity of the oil, the better it tastes. And when considering the variety or cultivar of the olive, some olive varieties have better organoleptic and nutritional properties than others. 

At Masseria Borzone we have the added benefit of altitude and proximity to the sea, two important influences that have an impact on the flavour of our oil. Our limestone-rich soil from higher altitude and sea breeze, show more freshness and elegance. Coastal groves, especially near the Adriatic tend to produce fruitier, more aroma?c oils due to sea breezes and saline influence. 

 

How has production typically been approached in the region? 

The production of EVOO in Puglia has traditionally been a deeply rooted part of the regions culture.

The region’s famous Monumentali olive trees, some well over 1000 years old, are hand-harvested using nets and combs. This helps with quality, for example the harvester can be more selective about the quality and ripeness of the fruit being picked and the process is gentle.

Some traditional techniques, the use of stone mills, have been replaced. The extraction and processing of the olives mostly takes place in modern continuous-cycle, mills with centrifugal systems. The process is oxygen free, and temperature controlled to ensure cold extraction and extra virgin olive oil of the highest quality is obtained. These are also more efficient and hygienic processes.

 

 

Are you bringing any differences to your practice, if so, what’s new or different about Trulli Ulivi? 

Maureen and I have set out to breathe life back into Masseria Borzone, the land and the trees and to produce an outstanding, premium extra virgin olive oil.
We asked ourselves what this property should look like in 20-30 years from now.
In 2021 when we arrived at Borzone, and with the expertise of Mimmo Zaccaria (4th generation local farmer who has been managing the farm for 9 years before us), Francesca Palumbo, (advisor and agricultural entrepreneur) and Oronzo Morelli (agronomist) we immediately started to establish a seasonal rhythm for our farming practices.

We resurrected and modernized the artesian well and irrigation on the property. We now have 100% of our groves irrigated. We are blessed with a pristine water supply, there are no neighboring properties, only the natural Mediterranean woods behind us on the escarpment. Water is key for producing quality EVOO and future proofing against our changing climate. Ogliarola is our predominant variety, and we have 1500 Monumentali. We have planted 1800 new trees, comprised of three different varieties to give some diversity for the future.

We have the DOP Collina di Brindisi- DOP is short for Protected Designation of Origin it ensures that products are locally grown by local farmers and artisans, using traditional methods.

 

We have invested in creating a brand that respects and reflects the commune, the local culture and vernacular, inspired by local street signs and the shapes of the pinnacles on the top of the Trulli. We also set out to bring a contemporary feel to a luxury premium EVOO.

We are about to start building a modern frantoio on the farm using contemporary technology. We plan to be milling the 2026 harvest at Borzone. It is important to have control over the milling process once the olives are ready to be milled.

“Invaiatura” refers to the point when the olives start changing from green to purple to black. This stage is crucial for determining harvest time for high-quality EVOO. It greatly influences flavour, aroma, and the polyphenol count.
From there, the milling process plays its part. The frantoio will also include a cellar and tasting room, a farm shop and taverna.

In summary, we have taken a holistic approach to achieving the goal. A closed loop system. 

6. Could you describe the flavour, texture and a few favorite uses for your olive oil?

The taste is bi`er (in the right way), peppery and fruity. The oil is viscous, grassy with other clear vegetal notes of green tomato and artichoke. The colour ranges from deep vivid electric green Initially and tends to lighten over time into a more golden deep green. 

We love the new oil (crudo), November through to March on legumes, chickpea puree or bean soup, cannellini beans and crusty bread or the crunchy winter tomatoes. Then the softer fruitier oil with fish and lamb dishes. Right now, we are enjoying a Greek Salad- pickled caper leaves, sweet ripe tomatoes, red onion, cold crisp cucumber, a Greek rusk, fresh dill dried oregano, mint leaves, a splash of good red wine vinegar and a large slice of barrel aged Feta smothered in Trulli EVOO. 

 

 

Are there any myths about Extra Virgin Olive Oil that you would like to dispel? 

The old myth that cooking with extra virgin olive oil is not advisable is false. Extra virgin olive oil is excellent to cook with, shallow or deep frying or for any other method of cookery, it’s great. In fact, cooking with EVOO is beneficial in a healthy sense because we absorb a range of antioxidants found only in EVOO with the food we consume.

What I would say is, we may want to cook or dress a dish with an oil with less flavour than the bold flavour you find in a good quality extra virgin olive oil. Instead, use a good quality vegetable or seed oil, or a blend of the two.

 

Could you expand on the effect terroir and vintage have on olive oil?

Terroir and vintage play critical roles in shaping the character and quality of Pugliese extra virgin olive oil.

Terroir: The Soul of Pugliese EVOO includes the climate, soil, landscape and local biodiversity of a given area. In Puglia, this translates into:

Soil Limestone-rich soils in the Murge plateau and more specifically for us Colline di Brindisi lend minerality and freshness. Red clay soils, particularly in Salento, bring intensity and depth to the oil.
Soil affects olive tree health, oil aromatic complexity, and polyphenol levels.
Climate- Puglia’s hot, dry summers and mild winters result in olives with improved flavour and shelf life.

Altitude & Proximity to the Sea and from higher altitudes such as Masseria Borzone benefit from these influences.

Vintage: The Year’s Signature Like wine, olive oil is vintage-sensitive, although producers often blend for consistency. Rainfall and Temperature Variation, dry years = more concentrated flavors, higher polyphenols (spicier, more bitter oils), wet or cooler years = milder, more delicate oils with softer aromas. 

Olive Maturity and Harvest Timing Early harvests yield greener, more pungent oils (often higher quality, lower yield). Later harvests will bring rounder, more buttery textures, but reduced complexity.

Fruit from the coastal groves in a cooler vintage may be: smoother, fruity or almondy, with lower intensity but great balance.

 

 

Does the region of Puglia also express itself through its wine production, do you see any parallels between the two crops?

The wine industry in Puglia is significant, accounting for about 17% of Italy’s total wine production. 

Over the last two decades there have been some remarkable changes: a strong emphasis on producing quality wines, adopting modern techniques and investment in better vineyard management. There has been a shift to sustainable and organic practices and winemakers have embraced innovation.

These changes have helped Puglia establish itself as a prominent wine region in Italy and globally.

There are several contemporary winemakers and wine labels in Puglia that have gained recognition for their quality and innovation. There are some notable Italian names here.

Tormaresca: Part of the Antinori family, Tormaresca is known for producing high-quality wines using both indigenous and international grape varieties.

Feudi di San Marzano: This winery has a strong reputation for its modern approach to winemaking and has received numerous awards for its wines.

Cantele: Established in the 1970s, Cantele has been at the forefront of promoting Puglia’s native grape varieties, with a focus on quality and sustainability.

Cantina Sampietrana: This cooperative winery has gained attention for its commitment to traditional winemaking methods while also embracing modern techniques.